A smokin' good time
Coldsmoke (n.): billowy clouds of snow from fresh powder turns, most commonly found in and around Whitewater; also, one hell of a ski festival in Nelson BC.
The 12th Annual Kootenay Coldsmoke Powder Fest lived up to its reputation as one of the premiere ski events in Canada. The 3 day festival was jam packed with clinics, competitions, demos, parties and the kind of conditions and good vibes that Whitewater is quietly famous for.
More than a dozen different inbound and backcountry clinics were on tap. I joined the new 2 day “Coldsmokers WH2O Inside Out” to get the inside scoop on nearby powder stashes and brush up on my alpine touring skills. But sometimes, despite the best-laid plans, things don’t work out exactly as intended.
It’s Saturday morning, 8am, and the resort is already buzzing. With seemingly plenty of time before the clinic starts, I realize I’ve made a crucial mistake; I’ve left the keys to our rooftop cargo box, with our touring skis, at home. Cue panic attack.
In the midst of my frantic search for a solution, there are two obvious findings. One, everyone is exceedingly friendly and helpful when I ask fellow cargo box owners if they have a matching key (to no avail). And two, the Coldsmoke Village Trade Fair and Demos means I’m in luck for a spare pair of skis.
A local ski shop generously sets me up with some ultra-light touring skis and I’m back on track. Good thing, too, for our clinic takes us into an untracked bowl with foot deep powder all to ourselves. “Unicorn Bowl” blows us away with the quality of the snow and terrain (I’m informed that its real name is to remain hidden, revealed only to those who join the clinic, and hence the appeal of the tour).
But we weren’t the only ones taking advantage of the festival. Brightly coloured spandex clad skiers competed in the Randonee Rally, while the Village Ski Hut Slopestyle Competition hummed in the terrain park. Back at the lodge, Coal Oil Johnny’s Pub was packed with grinning après-skiers.
The good times continued into the evening at the Mountain Mingler in the Hume Hotel’s Spirit Bar. And oh boy, the culinary team sure put on a show. Separate poutine, crepe and dessert stations were complemented by salad and pizza bars, beer and cider sampling, and topped off with live music into the wee hours.
The resort was bustling on the final day of the festival, with fresh overnight snow resetting runs in and out of the resort. Our skilled guides led us to another heavenly stash of powder in the backcountry. We took turns carving rooster tail turns down a perfectly pitched slope, hooting and hollering all the way. Coldsmoke, indeed.
Back at the resort, the Poker Run Competition and The North Face Backcountry Olympics drew energetic participants, including some truly original costumes (picture two guys connected as the front and hind of a wiener dog and you get the idea). Dozens of tents with the latest gear available to demo filled the Coldsmoke Village, while inbound clinics took advantage of stellar conditions.
It may only happen once a year, but Coldsmoke sure pulls out all the stops and lives up to its reputation. The biggest challenge for guests may just be trying to squeeze it all in!